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How do I choose a good shirt?

Published in Apparel Quality Indicators 3 mins read

Choosing a good shirt involves evaluating several key quality indicators that affect fit, feel, and durability.

To select a high-quality shirt, pay close attention to details like the fit, the craftsmanship of the collar and cuffs, the fabric quality, the stitching, the seams, and the finish of components like buttons and buttonholes.

Key Quality Indicators for a Good Shirt

Based on characteristics often found in premium garments, here are essential points to consider when choosing a shirt:

  • Tailored Fit: A good shirt fits your body correctly. This means it's neither too tight nor too loose, allowing for comfortable movement while maintaining a clean silhouette. A well-tailored shirt will look sharp whether worn tucked in or out.
  • High Quality Collar: The collar is a shirt's frame around the face. A quality collar should have substance and shape, often achieved through interlining. It should sit well under a jacket and frame your tie knot neatly if wearing one. Look for collars that maintain their form throughout the day.
  • Fine Stitching: The devil is in the details, and stitching is a major indicator of quality. Look for fine stitching, meaning a high number of stitches per inch. More stitches make seams stronger and less likely to pucker, resulting in a smoother, more durable finish.
  • Flat Felled Seams: This type of seam is incredibly durable and gives a clean finish on both the inside and outside of the garment. Flat felled seams are often used in high-quality shirts because they withstand wear and washing better than simple overlocked seams.
  • Premium Cotton Fabric: The material dramatically affects comfort, appearance, and longevity. Premium cotton fabric, such as Egyptian or Supima cotton, is known for its long fibers, which create a softer, stronger, and more lustrous yarn. The weave (like broadcloth, twill, or poplin) also impacts texture and drape.
  • Mother of Pearl Buttons: A sign of a truly high-quality shirt is the use of Mother of Pearl buttons. Unlike plastic buttons, these have a natural iridescence and depth. They are also more durable and less prone to melting or cracking than standard plastic options.
  • Cleanly Finished Button Holes: Inspect the button holes. They should be neatly stitched with no loose threads. A cleanly finished button hole demonstrates attention to detail in manufacturing and ensures buttons are secure yet easy to fasten and unfasten.
  • Hand Sewn Cuffs: While less common in mass production, hand sewn cuffs can be a hallmark of exceptional craftsmanship. This technique allows for greater precision and a more refined finish compared to machine sewing, contributing to the overall look and feel of the shirt's sleeve ends.

Summary of Quality Shirt Features

Feature What to Look For Why it Matters
Fit Tailored, follows body shape comfortably Looks sharp, allows movement
Collar Substantial, keeps shape, sits well Frames face, looks good with/without tie/jacket
Stitching Fine, high stitch count (e.g., 18-22 stitches/inch) Durability, smooth seams
Seams Flat Felled Seams Strength, clean interior/exterior finish
Fabric Premium Cotton (Supima, Egyptian) Softness, strength, drape, longevity
Buttons Mother of Pearl Durability, appearance, luxury feel
Button Holes Cleanly finished, no loose threads Functionality, sign of quality construction
Cuff Construction Hand Sewn (indicative of high craft) Refined finish, attention to detail

By examining these elements, you can effectively assess the quality and choose a shirt that not only looks good but also lasts.