In climbing, a redpoint refers to the successful free-climb of a route after having practiced it multiple times, often following unsuccessful attempts to complete it on sight or by flashing.
Understanding the Redpoint
Redpointing involves a climber ascending a route from bottom to top without falling or resting on the rope, but only after they have previously attempted the route. This typically means the climber has spent time working out the individual moves, finding optimal sequences, and identifying rest points. It's a testament to dedication and refinement, as climbers invest effort to master a challenging climb.
The term "redpoint" originated in Germany, where legendary climber Kurt Albert would mark completed project routes with a red dot at their base. If he climbed the route cleanly from bottom to top after multiple attempts, he would "redpoint" it.
Redpoint vs. Other Ascent Styles
The redpoint is one of several distinct styles of ascent in free climbing, each defined by the conditions under which the climb is completed. It is most commonly contrasted with "onsighting" and "flashing":
- Onsighting: This is considered the purest form of ascent. An onsight occurs when a climber free-climbs a route on their very first attempt, with no falls and no prior beta (information about the route). They must rely entirely on their ability to read the rock and figure out the sequence in real-time.
- Flashing: Similar to onsighting, a flash also involves free-climbing a route on the first attempt with no falls. However, unlike an onsight, the climber does have prior beta. This information might come from watching another climber, receiving verbal advice about specific moves, or studying a topo (route diagram).
- Redpoint: Climbers will often attempt to redpoint a route after they have failed to onsight or flash it. If the first attempt (whether an onsight or flash attempt) is unsuccessful, the goal then shifts to redpointing the route. This means returning to the climb, practicing sections, and refining the sequence until a clean, free ascent is achieved.
Comparison of Ascent Styles
| Ascent Style | First Attempt? | Prior Beta Allowed? | Falls/Rests Allowed? | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Redpoint | No | Yes | No (on final ascent) | Successful free ascent after previous attempts and practice |
| Onsighting | Yes | No | No | Clean free ascent on first try with no prior knowledge |
| Flashing | Yes | Yes | No | Clean free ascent on first try with prior knowledge |
Significance and Practical Insights
- Goal-Oriented Climbing: For many climbers, particularly in sport climbing, redpointing a route becomes a primary objective. It allows them to push their physical and mental limits on climbs that are initially beyond their immediate capabilities.
- Route Grading: The difficulty of sport climbing routes is typically established by the grade of its first redpoint ascent. This standard ensures consistency in grading worldwide.
- Process: Redpointing often involves a systematic process:
- Reconnaissance: Initial attempts to understand the route's character and identify key sections.
- Working Sections: Practicing difficult moves or sequences repeatedly until they can be done efficiently.
- Rest and Refine: Finding optimal rest positions and linking sections together.
- Send Attempt: Making dedicated attempts to climb the entire route cleanly from bottom to top.
Redpointing is a fundamental aspect of modern rock climbing, representing the successful culmination of effort, strategy, and perseverance on a challenging climb.
