Oils aren't inherently bad for curly hair, but the statement referencing their interference with protein treatments is important. When hair needs protein treatment, oils can indeed hinder the process. Here's why:
Curly hair, by nature, tends to be more porous than straight hair. This porosity means the hair cuticle (the outer layer) is often raised, allowing moisture to enter and exit easily. This can lead to frizz, dryness, and damage.
How Protein Treatments Work (and why oil interferes)
Protein treatments are designed to temporarily fill in gaps in the hair cuticle with protein. This makes the hair stronger, less porous, and better able to retain moisture.
The referenced advice suggests applying a water-based protein treatment to block moisture from passing through the cuticle.
Here's where oil comes in:
- Oils create a barrier: Oils are hydrophobic, meaning they repel water. Applying oil to the hair before a water-based protein treatment can prevent the treatment from properly penetrating the hair shaft. The oil essentially blocks the protein from reaching the damaged areas of the cuticle.
- Hindered Protein Absorption: If the protein can't absorb effectively, the treatment won't work as intended, rendering it less effective in strengthening and repairing the hair.
When are Oils Not Bad for Curly Hair?
Oils can be beneficial for curly hair when used correctly and in the right circumstances:
- Sealing in Moisture: After applying a water-based moisturizer, oils can help seal in that moisture, preventing it from evaporating quickly.
- Adding Shine and Definition: Oils can add shine and definition to curls, making them look healthier and more vibrant.
- Protecting from Environmental Damage: Oils can create a protective barrier against environmental factors like sun and wind.
- Pre-Poo Treatment: Applying oil before shampooing can help protect the hair from the drying effects of some shampoos.
- Hot Oil Treatments: Oils warmed and massaged into the scalp can promote blood flow and hair growth.
Conclusion
While oils aren't inherently bad for curly hair, they can interfere with the effectiveness of protein treatments if applied before the treatment. The key is understanding your hair's needs and using oils strategically. If your hair needs protein, prioritize that treatment without oil interference. Otherwise, oils can be a valuable part of a curly hair care routine.
