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Do stores throw away returned clothes?

Published in Fashion Waste 4 mins read

Yes, in many cases, stores and manufacturers do throw away returned clothes, and a significant portion of apparel returns finds its way to landfills. They are often not simply dusted off and put back on sale.

The Complex Journey of Returned Apparel

When you return clothing, it rarely goes straight back onto the shop floor. The process of handling returns is complex and costly for retailers and manufacturers. While some items might be restocked, a substantial amount, including those that appear to be in perfect condition, never makes it back into the retail supply chain.

Why Returns Often End Up in Landfills

There are several reasons why returned clothing might be discarded rather than resold:

  • Cost of Processing: Inspecting, cleaning, repackaging, and re-tagging returned items can be more expensive than the potential profit from reselling them, especially for low-cost items or high-volume returns. The logistical costs involved in getting an item from a return center back to a store or warehouse are substantial.
  • Hygiene and Damage Concerns: Retailers often have strict policies regarding hygiene. Even if an item looks unworn, they may discard it due to potential contamination or if there's any perceived damage, however minor.
  • Brand Reputation: Selling an item that might have been tried on multiple times, even if cleaned, could impact a brand's image. Some premium brands prefer to dispose of returns rather than risk devaluing their products.
  • Volume of Returns: The rise of e-commerce has led to a surge in returns, with consumers often ordering multiple sizes or styles with the intention of returning most of them. This sheer volume overwhelms the capacity for processing and creates a backlog.
  • Inventory Management: It's often simpler and cheaper for companies to write off returned goods for tax purposes and dispose of them than to reintroduce them into the inventory system.

Destinations for Returned Clothes

While landfills are a common destination, some returned clothing takes other paths:

Destination Description
Landfill Clothes are discarded and contribute to textile waste, often due to cost, hygiene, or logistical challenges.
Resale/Restock Items that are pristine, high-value, or easily re-packaged might be put back on sale, but this is less common than generally assumed for all returns.
Liquidation Large batches of returns or overstock are sold to third-party liquidators at significantly reduced prices. These items may then be sold in discount stores or exported.
Donation Some retailers partner with charities to donate returns, especially those in good condition. However, charities also face challenges with the sheer volume and quality of donations, leading to some discards on their end.
Recycling/Downcycling A small percentage of textile waste, including returns, might be shredded for insulation, rags, or other low-value applications. True fiber-to-fiber recycling for clothing is still developing and not widespread.
Incineration In some regions, clothes may be incinerated, which generates energy but also contributes to air pollution.

Addressing the Problem of Textile Waste

The environmental impact of discarded clothing, including returns, is significant, contributing to landfill waste, greenhouse gas emissions, and pollution. Efforts are being made across the industry to reduce this waste:

  • Improving Sizing and Fit: Technologies like virtual try-on and AI-driven sizing recommendations aim to reduce the initial need for returns.
  • Better Return Policies: Some companies are experimenting with policies that encourage more thoughtful purchasing or offer incentives for keeping items.
  • Reverse Logistics Optimization: Investing in more efficient systems for sorting, inspecting, and processing returns to maximize their value.
  • Material Innovation: Developing more durable and easily recyclable materials for clothing.
  • Circular Economy Models: Promoting business models focused on repair, resale, rental, and recycling to keep clothes in use longer.

What Consumers Can Do

Consumers play a role in mitigating this issue:

  • Shop Mindfully: Reduce impulse buys and consider if you truly need an item before purchasing.
  • Check Sizing Guides: Utilize detailed sizing charts and customer reviews to minimize the need for ordering multiple sizes.
  • Support Sustainable Brands: Choose brands that transparently share their return handling policies and are committed to reducing waste.
  • Consider Alternatives to Returns: If an item doesn't fit or isn't wanted, consider reselling it yourself, donating it locally, or upcycling it if possible, rather than returning it if you suspect it might just be discarded.

Understanding the fate of returned clothes highlights the broader issue of textile waste in the fashion industry and the complex logistics behind e-commerce convenience.