zaro

How does gold work in jewelry?

Published in Gold Jewelry 2 mins read

Gold in jewelry primarily works as a valuable and aesthetically pleasing material, but due to its softness in its pure form, it's almost always alloyed with other metals to enhance durability and alter its color.

Here's a breakdown:

  • Pure Gold is Too Soft: 24k gold is very malleable and easily scratched or bent. This makes it unsuitable for most jewelry applications where it would be subject to daily wear and tear.

  • Alloying for Strength and Durability: Jewelers mix gold with other metals to increase its hardness and resilience. Common alloying metals include:

    • Silver: Adds malleability and a brighter, whiter tone.
    • Copper: Increases hardness and gives a reddish hue.
    • Zinc: Also contributes to hardness and can help remove oxygen during the melting process.
    • Nickel: (Less common now due to allergy concerns) Strengthens the alloy and whitens it.
    • Palladium/Platinum: Used in white gold alloys for a bright white color and increased durability.
  • Karat (K) System: The karat system indicates the proportion of gold in the alloy. 24k is pure gold. 18k gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metals (18/24 = 75% gold). 14k gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals (14/24 = approximately 58.3% gold).

  • Color Variation: The type and proportion of metals used in the alloy affect the color of the gold jewelry.

    • Yellow Gold: Typically alloyed with silver and copper.
    • White Gold: Alloyed with silver, palladium, or nickel and usually plated with rhodium for a bright white finish.
    • Rose Gold: Alloyed with a higher proportion of copper.
    • Green Gold: Alloyed with silver (and sometimes cadmium, though rare due to toxicity).
  • Example Table of Gold Alloys:

    Karat Gold Percentage (%) Common Alloying Metals Characteristics
    24k 99.9% None (or trace amounts) Very soft, bright yellow
    18k 75% Silver, Copper, Palladium Rich color, good for fine jewelry
    14k 58.3% Silver, Copper, Zinc, Nickel Durable, affordable, common for everyday wear
    10k 41.7% Silver, Copper, Zinc, Nickel Most durable, least expensive
  • Rhodium Plating: White gold is often plated with rhodium, a hard, bright white metal. This improves its scratch resistance and gives it a brighter, more reflective surface. However, rhodium plating wears off over time and needs to be reapplied.

In summary, gold's use in jewelry relies on alloying it with other metals to achieve the desired durability, color, and workability while maintaining its inherent value and aesthetic appeal. The karat system ensures that the piece is correctly labelled with its gold content.