Glosses, as applied to hair, primarily work by depositing color pigments onto the hair shaft to enhance, refresh, or correct the existing color without significantly altering its underlying structure. They're a form of demi-permanent color.
The Process of Hair Glossing
Hair gloss treatments typically employ a combination of direct dyes and low-volume developers to achieve their effects. Here's a breakdown of the process:
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Direct Dye Deposition: Direct dyes are pre-colored molecules that sit on the surface of the hair shaft. They deposit color without requiring a chemical reaction to open the hair cuticle significantly. This contributes to the gloss's gentle nature.
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Minimal Cuticle Opening: Unlike permanent hair color, glosses utilize very low volumes of developer (if any). This means the hair cuticle is only slightly opened, allowing some of the color molecules to penetrate just below the surface. This is why glosses fade over time—the color isn't deeply embedded.
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Color Refreshing and Toning: Because the cuticle is not drastically opened, glosses cannot significantly lighten the hair. Instead, they work to:
- Enhance Shine: The smooth deposition of color molecules creates a more reflective surface, leading to increased shine.
- Correct Tone: Glosses can neutralize unwanted tones (e.g., brassiness) or add desired tones (e.g., warmth).
- Refresh Existing Color: By depositing similar color pigments, glosses can extend the life of permanent hair color.
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Conditioning Benefits: Many glosses are formulated with conditioning ingredients like amino acids and oils that help to smooth the hair cuticle and improve its overall health and appearance.
Key Differences from Permanent Hair Color
The table below highlights the key differences between glosses and permanent hair color:
| Feature | Gloss (Demi-Permanent) | Permanent Hair Color |
|---|---|---|
| Developer Volume | Very Low or None | Higher |
| Cuticle Opening | Minimal | Significant |
| Color Change | Toning, Refreshing, Enhancing (No significant lightening) | Lightening, Darkening, Changing Base Color |
| Longevity | 4-6 weeks | Permanent (Requires Root Touch-Ups) |
| Hair Damage | Minimal | More Potential for Damage |
| Ammonia Content | Typically Ammonia-Free | Contains Ammonia |
| Dye Types | Direct Dyes & Low Level Oxidative Dyes | Oxidative Dyes |
In Summary
Glossing provides a gentle way to boost shine, correct tone, and enhance existing hair color through the surface-level deposition of color pigments and smoothing of the hair cuticle. It is not designed for drastic color changes, and its effects are temporary.
