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How Do Hair Dye Numbers Work?

Published in Hair Colouring 2 mins read

Hair dye numbers are a system used to indicate the base colour level and the reflect (tone) of a hair dye shade.

Understanding these numbers helps you choose the right dye to achieve your desired result. The system typically consists of one or two numbers separated by a dot or decimal point.

The Base Colour Level (The First Number)

The first number in a hair dye code represents the base colour level, which indicates how light or dark the shade is. This number usually ranges from 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 or 11 being the lightest.

  • According to the reference: The higher the number, the lighter the base colour will be.
  • Examples:
    • 1.0 is deep black.
    • 4.0 is typically a medium brown.
    • 9.0 is a light blonde.

Here's a general guide to what the numbers represent:

Level Description
1 Black
2 Darkest Brown
3 Dark Brown
4 Medium Brown
5 Light Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde

The Reflect or Tone (The Second Number)

The number after the decimal point indicates the reflect or tone of the colour. This is the underlying pigment or hue that influences the final look, such as whether it's ash, gold, red, or violet.

  • According to the reference: The second number of the shade is always related to the reflect.
  • The reference also states: The higher the number is, the warmer the reflect will be.

Reflects are often represented by numbers or letters, which can vary between brands. Common number codes for reflects often follow a pattern:

  • .0 - Natural (no significant reflect)
  • .1 - Ash (blue/green base)
  • .2 - Violet (purple base)
  • .3 - Gold (yellow base)
  • .4 - Copper (orange base)
  • .5 - Mahogany (red-violet base)
  • .6 - Red (red base)
  • .7 - Matt (green base)

Examples based on the reference:

  • 1.0 is a deep black with no reflect.
  • 4.5 is a light brown with a warm reflect (specifically mahogany, as .5 typically indicates warmth).

In summary, the first number tells you the depth (how light or dark), and the second number (if present) tells you the tone or reflect.