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Why do jewelers not like platinum?

Published in Jewelry Making Costs 3 mins read

Jewelers often find platinum less appealing to work with due to its intrinsic properties that increase labor time, skill requirements, and material management costs. Unlike white gold, platinum presents unique challenges that impact a jeweler's efficiency and profitability.

Why Jewelers Have Reservations About Platinum

Working with platinum can be a more involved process than crafting jewelry from other popular precious metals. These difficulties translate into tangible disadvantages for jewelers.

The Demands of Crafting with Platinum

Platinum is renowned for its strength and purity, but these very qualities make it more difficult to manipulate in the workshop. It requires a higher level of skill and experience to achieve a flawless finish. Jewelers working with platinum must possess specialized knowledge and techniques, as the metal behaves differently under heat and pressure compared to gold. This often means that only jewelers with significant experience can reliably produce high-quality platinum pieces.

Elevated Labor Costs

Due to the increased difficulty and time involved in working with platinum, the labor cost for crafting platinum jewelry is substantially higher. On average, the labor cost can be approximately 20% more than that for white gold. This higher expenditure directly impacts a jeweler's operational costs and profit margins, making platinum a less desirable material from a financial perspective for many workshops.

Challenges with Material Management and Waste

One of the most significant drawbacks for jewelers is platinum's inability to be efficiently recycled within the workshop.

  • Non-Reusable Scraps: Unlike white gold, which can often be re-melted and reused for other projects, platinum cannot be re-used and re-melted by jewelers in the same manner. This means that any small scraps, filings, or dust generated during the crafting process cannot be easily repurposed.
  • Expensive Refining: To recover the value from these platinum scraps and filings, jewelers must send them to a specialized refiner. This refining process is very expensive, adding another layer of cost and logistical complexity to platinum jewelry production. The inability to re-utilize internal waste effectively increases the overall material cost and reduces efficiency.

Summary of Challenges

The following table summarizes the key reasons why jewelers might prefer not to work with platinum:

Aspect Platinum White Gold
Workability More difficult, requires specialized skill Easier to work with
Labor Cost Approximately 20% higher Standard
Material Reusability Cannot be re-used or re-melted in-house Can be re-used and re-melted
Scrap Management Must be sent to expensive external refiners Reusable, less waste or external cost

These factors collectively contribute to jewelers' general preference for working with other metals, despite platinum's desirable qualities for the end consumer.