The exact answer to how to underpaint makeup involves applying contour, blush, and concealer before your foundation, then blending them seamlessly before layering foundation on top, and finally setting your look. This technique creates a natural, sculpted dimension that appears to come from within the skin.
How to Underpaint Makeup: A Step-by-Step Guide
Underpainting is a makeup technique that has gained popularity for its ability to create a more natural, sculpted, and blended finish. By applying certain products underneath your foundation, you build dimension and color that peeks through subtly, rather than sitting on top. Here's a detailed breakdown of the process:
Step 1: Prep Your Skin for a Flawless Canvas
Proper skin preparation is the foundational step for any makeup application, and it's especially crucial for underpainting. A well-prepped base ensures smoother application and better longevity of your makeup.
- Cleanse: Start with a clean face to remove impurities and excess oil.
- Moisturize: Apply a suitable moisturizer to hydrate your skin. This creates a plump, smooth surface.
- Prime: Use a primer to create a barrier between your skin and makeup, minimize pores, and help your makeup last longer.
Step 2: Contour and Sculpt for Definition
This is where the magic of underpainting begins. Instead of applying contour after foundation, you apply it directly onto your prepped skin.
- Product Choice: Opt for cream or liquid contour products. These blend more seamlessly than powders when applied under foundation.
- Application: Apply contour to areas you want to recede or define, such as:
- Hollows of your cheeks (from the top of your ear towards the corner of your mouth, stopping before the apple of your cheek)
- Along your jawline
- Sides of your nose
- Forehead, near the hairline
Step 3: Add Blush for a Natural Flush
Similar to contour, cream or liquid blush is applied before foundation to give a healthy, diffused flush of color.
- Product Choice: Cream or liquid blushes are ideal for underpainting due to their blendability.
- Application: Dab or swipe blush onto the apples of your cheeks, blending upwards towards your temples for a lifted effect. You can also lightly apply it across the bridge of your nose for a sun-kissed look.
Step 4: Color Correct and Conceal Imperfections
Address any specific concerns like dark circles or blemishes at this stage, laying the groundwork for an even complexion.
- Color Corrector: If needed, apply a thin layer of color corrector (e.g., peach for dark circles, green for redness) to neutralize discoloration.
- Concealer: Apply concealer to areas that need extra coverage, such as under-eye circles, blemishes, or redness around the nose. Use a shade that matches your skin tone or is slightly lighter for brightening.
Step 5: Blend Your Underpainting Makeup Seamlessly
This is a critical step to ensure a natural, streak-free finish before applying foundation.
- Tools: Use a damp beauty sponge or a dense brush to gently blend all the applied products (contour, blush, corrector, concealer).
- Technique: Use light tapping or dabbing motions. The goal is to blend the edges until there are no harsh lines, but the definition and color are still visible. Avoid wiping, which can move the product around too much.
Step 6: Layer On Foundation for an Even Canvas
Now that your underpainting is blended, it's time to apply your foundation over it. This is what truly differentiates underpainting.
- Product Choice: Use a medium-to-full coverage liquid or cream foundation.
- Application: Apply a thin layer of foundation over your entire face, gently tapping or pressing it over the blended underpainting. The key is to use just enough to unify your skin tone without completely obscuring the dimension you've created underneath. This allows the contour and blush to subtly peek through, creating a soft, natural effect.
Step 7: Set It for Longevity
To lock everything in place and prevent creasing or smudging, setting your makeup is essential.
- Powder: Lightly dust translucent setting powder or a finely milled pressed powder over your T-zone and any areas prone to shine. Be careful not to over-powder, especially over your contour and blush areas, to maintain the soft, natural look.
- Setting Spray: Finish with a setting spray to melt the layers together, remove any powdery finish, and extend the wear of your makeup.
By following these steps, your underpainted makeup will result in a beautifully sculpted, natural-looking finish that appears effortlessly radiant.
