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How to dress like the Middle Ages?

Published in Medieval Clothing Guide 5 mins read

To dress like someone from the Middle Ages, one would primarily focus on layered, functional garments, with styles evolving significantly from the early to late periods and varying greatly by social class and wealth.

How to Dress Like the Middle Ages?

Dressing like the Middle Ages involves understanding the layered garments, fabric choices, and distinct styles that evolved over nearly a thousand years, reflecting social status, occupation, and regional differences.

Understanding Medieval Clothing

Medieval clothing was typically designed for practicality, warmth, and modesty. Layers were essential, and garments were often simple in cut but could become quite elaborate with time, especially for the wealthy. Social standing was immediately discernible through one's attire, with rich fabrics, vibrant dyes, and complex designs reserved for the nobility.

Key Garments by Gender and Era

Medieval fashion underwent significant transformations. Here's a general overview:

Men's Attire

  • Early & High Middle Ages (c. 500-1300 AD):

    • Undergarments: A simple linen shirt (or chemise) and linen breeches or braies (loose, knee-length shorts).
    • Tunics: The most common outer garment was a tunic or cote, typically knee-length, worn over the shirt. Sleeves varied from straight to wide.
    • Hose: Simple leggings, often tied to the braies, covered the legs.
    • Outerwear: Cloaks or mantles were worn for warmth and status, fastened with brooches or ties.
  • Late Middle Ages (c. 1300-1500 AD) & Wealthy Classes:

    • As the period progressed, men's fashion, particularly among the wealthy, became more tailored and revealing.
    • Hose: Tightly fitted hose became common, often joined to form a single garment, showcasing the legs.
    • Jackets & Doublets: A fitted jacket or doublet became the primary outer garment for the upper body. These could be short or longer, sometimes featuring pleating or skirting.
    • Tunics & Surcoats: Wealthy men also sported a tunic worn with a surcoat, which was an outer garment, often sleeveless, worn over the tunic or armor.
    • Houppelande: A very popular outer garment in the late period, a long, full gown with wide, often decorated sleeves, cinched at the waist.

Women's Attire

  • Early & High Middle Ages (c. 500-1300 AD):

    • Undergarments: A long linen shift or chemise served as the base layer.
    • Gowns: A long, flowing tunic or cote (gown) was worn over the shift, typically floor-length with long sleeves.
    • Outer Gowns: An over-tunic or bliaut (a more fitted, elaborate gown, sometimes laced at the sides) could be worn, often with wider sleeves.
    • Head Coverings: Married women, especially, wore veils, wimples (fabric covering the neck and chin), or simple coifs for modesty.
  • Late Middle Ages (c. 1300-1500 AD) & Wealthy Classes:

    • Fashion became more elaborate, emphasizing the silhouette.
    • Flowing Gowns: Women wore flowing gowns often with high waists and voluminous skirts, sometimes with long trains. Styles like the cotehardie (more fitted bodice) and the houppelande (similar to men's but more feminine) were prevalent.
    • Elaborate Headwear: Headwear became a significant fashion statement for wealthy women, ranging from:
      • Headdresses shaped like hearts or butterflies.
      • Tall steeple caps (known as hennins), often adorned with long veils.
      • Intricate Italian turbans and padded rolls.

Materials, Colors, and Social Status

  • Materials:
    • Commoners: Primarily wool and linen. Wool was durable and warm, while linen was used for undergarments and lighter outer layers.
    • Wealthy: Access to luxurious fabrics like silk, velvet, brocade, and fine furs (ermine, sable) to display their affluence.
  • Colors: Dyes were expensive and often indicated status.
    • Commoners: Muted, natural colors (browns, greens, undyed fabrics).
    • Wealthy: Bright, rich colors like deep reds (from madder), blues (from woad or indigo), and purples (very rare and expensive, often reserved for royalty).

Footwear and Accessories

  • Footwear:
    • Simple leather shoes were common, often turn-shoes (sewn inside out and then turned right side out).
    • Boots were worn for riding or work.
    • Late medieval period saw the rise of poulaines or crakows, shoes with long, pointed toes, especially popular among the nobility.
  • Accessories:
    • Belts: Essential for both genders to cinch garments, carry pouches, or hang tools.
    • Pouches: Worn on the belt to carry personal items.
    • Jewelry: Brooches, rings, and necklaces were worn by the wealthy.
    • Gloves: Worn for warmth or as a status symbol.

Dressing for Different Social Classes

The distinction between social classes was starkly visible in their attire:

Feature Commoner (Peasant/Artisan) Noble (Lord/Lady)
Fabrics Coarse wool, linen, undyed or simply dyed Fine wool, silk, velvet, brocade, fur
Colors Muted, earthy tones Vibrant, rich, expensive dyes
Layers Fewer, practical Many, often voluminous for display
Tailoring Loose, simple cuts Highly tailored, fitted silhouettes
Adornment Minimal, functional Elaborate embroidery, jewels, complex pleating/slashing
Headwear Simple coifs, hoods Elaborate veils, wimples, coronets, steeple hats, turbans
Footwear Practical, sturdy shoes Fine leather, often with exaggerated features (poulaines)

Recreating a Medieval Look

To achieve an authentic medieval look, consider these practical insights:

  • Layering is Key: Start with simple undergarments (linen shirt/shift) and build up with tunics, gowns, and outerwear.
  • Fabric Choice: Opt for natural fibers like linen and wool for a historically accurate feel. For wealthier looks, consider silk or velvet alternatives.
  • Silhouette: Pay attention to the distinct shapes of different periods – early medieval being looser, late medieval becoming more fitted and dramatic.
  • Research Specific Eras: The Middle Ages span a vast period. Choose a specific century or even a decade (e.g., 14th-century English, 12th-century French) for greater accuracy.
  • Source Reference Images: Look at illuminated manuscripts, historical paintings, and surviving garments in museum collections for inspiration and detail.

By combining research into specific periods with an understanding of social status, you can accurately recreate the diverse and evolving styles of the Middle Ages.