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How is ocean bathymetry measured?

Published in Oceanography 3 mins read

Ocean bathymetry is primarily measured using echo sounders (sonar).

Here's a more detailed explanation of the process:

Echo Sounders: The Primary Tool

  • What it is: An echo sounder, also known as sonar (Sound Navigation and Ranging), is a device that emits sound waves and listens for their reflections.

  • How it works:

    1. A sound pulse is transmitted from a transducer (a device that converts electrical signals into sound waves) located on the hull of a ship or a submerged vehicle.
    2. The sound wave travels through the water column and bounces off the seafloor.
    3. The reflected sound wave returns to the transducer.
    4. The echo sounder measures the time it takes for the sound wave to travel from the transducer to the seafloor and back.
  • Calculating Depth: Using the known speed of sound in water (which varies slightly based on temperature, salinity, and pressure) and the measured travel time, the depth of the ocean floor can be calculated using the formula:

    Depth = (Speed of Sound * Travel Time) / 2

    The division by 2 is necessary because the travel time represents the round trip (down to the seafloor and back).

Types of Echo Sounders

  • Single-beam echo sounders: Emit a single sound pulse and measure the depth directly below the transducer. These are relatively simple and provide a profile of the seafloor along the ship's track.
  • Multibeam echo sounders: Emit multiple sound pulses simultaneously, covering a wider swath of the seafloor. This provides a more detailed and comprehensive map of the bathymetry. Multibeam systems are significantly more expensive but generate much richer data.

Other Methods

While echo sounders are the dominant method, other techniques are also used:

  • Satellite Altimetry: Satellites measure the height of the sea surface. Variations in sea surface height are influenced by the gravitational pull of underwater features (mountains, valleys, etc.). This data can be used to infer bathymetry, especially in areas where direct measurements are limited. This method provides lower resolution data compared to sonar.
  • LIDAR (Light Detection and Ranging): Aircraft equipped with LIDAR systems emit laser pulses and measure the time it takes for the light to return. This method is effective in shallow coastal waters.
  • Submersibles and ROVs (Remotely Operated Vehicles): These vehicles can carry sonar systems or cameras to obtain high-resolution bathymetric data and visual information in specific areas of interest.

Data Processing and Visualization

The data collected from echo sounders and other methods undergoes processing to correct for errors and create bathymetric maps and models. These maps are used for a variety of purposes, including navigation, resource exploration, and scientific research.

In summary, ocean bathymetry is predominantly measured using echo sounders that emit sound pulses and measure the time it takes for them to return, enabling the calculation of ocean depth. Other methods like satellite altimetry and LIDAR provide complementary information.