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What Are Approach Shoes Used For?

Published in Outdoor Footwear 4 mins read

Approach shoes are primarily designed as a versatile hybrid footwear solution, perfectly bridging the gap between hiking boots and rock climbing shoes, used for navigating rugged, rocky terrain and reaching climbing routes, and also suitable for hikers in drier climates.

The Hybrid Advantage: Bridging Climbing and Hiking

Imagine if a sturdy pair of hiking boots and a precision rock climbing shoe had a baby—the result would be something like an approach shoe. This unique footwear combines the durability, support, and tread of hiking shoes with the grip and technical features of climbing shoes, making them exceptionally versatile for specific outdoor activities.

Primary Use: Rock Climbing Approaches

The core purpose of approach shoes is to assist rock climbers who need to shoulder heavy loads of gear across rocky terrain to reach climbing routes. Before a climber can even touch a rock face, they often have to trek through varied and challenging landscapes that require more than just standard hiking boots.

  • Secure Traction: Their sticky rubber outsoles provide exceptional grip on slick rock, scree, and unstable ground, crucial for safe passage to the base of a climb.
  • Support for Heavy Loads: The robust construction offers ample support for ankles and feet, essential when carrying heavy backpacks filled with ropes, harnesses, and other climbing equipment.
  • Scrambling Capability: They excel in "fourth-class" terrain, which involves basic climbing without ropes, but where a slip could be dangerous. The precise toe allows for confident foot placements on small holds.
  • Comfort for Long Hikes: Unlike technical climbing shoes, approach shoes are comfortable enough for extended walking, preventing foot fatigue on long treks to remote climbing areas.

Versatile for Hikers

While their name suggests a specific climbing utility, approach shoes can work just as well for hikers in dryer climates and those who frequently encounter rocky, technical trails.

  • Technical Day Hikes: Ideal for day hikes that involve scrambling, light climbing, or navigating steep, rocky sections where a standard hiking shoe might lack the necessary grip or precision.
  • Via Ferrata: Their sticky rubber and precise toe are perfect for negotiating metal rungs and cables found on via ferrata routes.
  • Light Backpacking: For backpackers sticking to less aggressive terrain but valuing enhanced grip, particularly where water crossings or rocky sections are expected.
  • Travel Footwear: Their blend of comfort, durability, and discreet technical capability makes them a popular choice for adventure travel.

Key Features That Define Their Use

Approach shoes are distinguished by several key design elements that enable their dual functionality:

  • Sticky Rubber Outsole: Often made from high-friction climbing rubber, providing unparalleled grip on rock.
  • Climbing Zone/Smearing Patch: A smooth, treadless area near the toe for maximum contact and grip on slabby rock.
  • Protective Toe Rand: A durable rubber strip encircling the front of the shoe, protecting toes from abrasion and enhancing edging capability.
  • Extended Lacing: Laces often extend closer to the toes, allowing for a highly customizable and precise fit, much like a climbing shoe.
  • Stiff Midsole: Provides support for carrying loads and standing on small edges, though generally less stiff than a dedicated climbing shoe or mountaineering boot.
  • Durable Upper Materials: Built to withstand abrasive rock and rugged outdoor conditions.

Approach Shoes vs. Other Footwear

To better understand their role, it's helpful to compare approach shoes to other common outdoor footwear:

Feature Hiking Shoes/Boots Approach Shoes Rock Climbing Shoes
Primary Use Trail walking, backpacking Rocky approaches, technical hiking, scrambling Technical rock climbing
Grip Aggressive lugs for dirt/mud Sticky rubber for rock, moderate lugs Extremely sticky rubber for precise holds
Support Good ankle/arch support Good general support, stiffer than hikers Minimal support, focus on sensitivity
Comfort High for long distances Good for approaches, less cushioned than hikers Minimal, designed for performance
Precision Low High, especially in the toe area Extremely high
Weight Moderate to heavy Light to moderate Very light
Terrain Trails, varied terrain Rocky trails, scree, slabs, light climbing Vertical rock, crack climbing, bouldering

Source: Adapted from OutdoorGearLab.com and REI.com

Practical Scenarios and Examples

  • Ascending to Multi-Pitch Climbs: Hikers and climbers might use them to traverse boulder fields and steep trails leading to the base of a multi-pitch climbing route, then switch to climbing shoes for the technical ascent.
  • Scrambling Peaks: Ideal for "walk-up" peaks that involve sections of exposed rock scrambling or low-grade climbing.
  • Descent Footwear: Climbers often wear them for the descent after a climb, providing more comfort and stability than climbing shoes.
  • Everyday Adventure: Their rugged good looks and robust build also make them popular for everyday wear for outdoor enthusiasts.

In essence, approach shoes are the go-to footwear for adventurers who need a reliable, high-traction shoe that can handle both the trek to the challenge and the initial, less technical parts of the challenge.