Measuring a pattern involves several steps, depending on what aspect you want to measure. It can refer to measuring a physical pattern piece, measuring a finished garment made from a pattern, or calculating the "ease" in a pattern. The process differs depending on the goal.
Measuring a Pattern Piece
This involves using a ruler or measuring tape to determine the dimensions of individual pattern pieces. This is usually done to:
- Verify the pattern matches your measurements before cutting fabric.
- Compare different pattern sizes.
- Make adjustments to the pattern.
Measuring a Finished Garment
This involves measuring a garment after it has been sewn using the pattern. Common measurements include:
- Bust
- Waist
- Hips
- Length
These measurements are taken to ensure the garment fits as intended.
Calculating Pattern Ease
One important aspect of measuring a pattern is understanding the concept of "ease." Ease refers to the extra room included in a garment for comfort and movement beyond your body measurements. There are two types of ease:
- Wearing Ease: The minimum amount of extra fabric needed for basic movement and comfort.
- Design Ease: Additional ease added to achieve a specific silhouette or style.
How to Calculate Ease
According to provided references, the process of calculating ease is based on subtraction:
- Identify Finished Garment Dimensions: Find the finished dimensions of the garment. These are usually printed on the pattern envelope or on the pattern pieces themselves.
- Locate Pattern Company's Standard Measurements: Find the pattern company's standard measurements for the corresponding size (these are typically on the pattern envelope).
- Subtract: To calculate the intended ease in areas like the chest, bust, waist, and hips, subtract the pattern company's standard measurements from the finished garment dimensions.
Example:
Let's say the finished bust measurement of a garment is 38 inches, and the pattern company's standard bust measurement for that size is 36 inches.
- Finished Bust Measurement: 38 inches
- Pattern Company's Bust Measurement: 36 inches
- Ease: 38 - 36 = 2 inches
This means the pattern has 2 inches of ease in the bust.
Why is Ease Important?
Understanding and calculating ease is crucial for achieving a well-fitting garment. Too little ease can result in a garment that is too tight and uncomfortable, while too much ease can lead to a garment that is shapeless and unflattering.
By carefully measuring patterns and calculating ease, you can ensure that your finished garments fit as desired.
