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Why Box In Pipes?

Published in Pipe Enclosure 6 mins read

Boxing in pipes on a wall is an effective way to conceal unsightly pipework, improve the aesthetics of a room, and provide a safer environment by covering exposed hot or cold pipes. It involves constructing a custom enclosure, typically from timber battens and plasterboard, around the pipes.

Concealing pipes offers several advantages:

  • Aesthetics: Transforms the look of a room by hiding exposed, often unappealing, plumbing.
  • Safety: Protects against accidental contact with hot pipes, reducing the risk of burns, especially for children or pets.
  • Hygiene: Prevents dust and dirt from accumulating directly on pipes, making cleaning easier.
  • Sound Insulation: Can help reduce noise from water flow within pipes, though this often requires additional insulation materials.
  • Damage Protection: Guards pipes against accidental knocks or damage.

Materials and Tools You'll Need

To successfully box in pipes, gather the following:

  • Timber Battens: Typically 2x1 or 2x2 inch (50x25mm or 50x50mm) treated softwood.
  • Covering Material: Plasterboard, MDF (Medium-Density Fibreboard), or plywood.
  • Fixings: Screws (wood screws, plasterboard screws), wall plugs appropriate for your wall type (e.g., universal, rawlplugs).
  • Adhesive: Construction adhesive (optional, for extra strength).
  • Jointing Compound/Filler: For plasterboard joints and screw holes.
  • Sandpaper: Various grits for finishing.
  • Measuring Tape and Pencil
  • Spirit Level
  • Drill/Driver: With appropriate drill bits for timber and masonry.
  • Saw: Hand saw, jigsaw, or circular saw for cutting timber and covering material.
  • Utility Knife: For scoring and snapping plasterboard.
  • Screwdriver Bits
  • Caulking Gun (if using adhesive)
  • Protective Gear: Safety glasses, gloves.

Planning Your Pipe Boxing Project

Before cutting, carefully plan the dimensions and type of boxing required.

  • Measure Pipe Protrusion: Determine how far the pipes extend from the wall. Your box must be deep enough to comfortably enclose them, allowing a small gap for air circulation or future access.
  • Consider Box Type: Decide between an L-shaped box (two sides, for pipes in a corner or along one wall) or a full box (three or four sides, for pipes completely freestanding or away from a corner).
  • Access: Plan for future access if maintenance might be required. This could involve using screws instead of nails for the covering, or designing a removable panel.

Step-by-Step Guide to Boxing in Pipes

Follow these steps to create a professional-looking pipe enclosure:

1. Preparation and Measurement

  • Clear the area around the pipes.
  • Measure the length of the pipes you wish to box in. This will determine the length of your battens and covering material.
  • Decide on the depth and width of your box. Remember to add at least 15-25mm to the pipe's maximum protrusion to accommodate the batten thickness and provide clearance.

2. Cutting and Preparing Battens

  • Cut your timber battens to the required lengths based on your measurements. You'll need battens for:
    • The top and bottom edges (if applicable).
    • Vertical supports.
    • Horizontal supports.
  • Ensure all cuts are straight and precise using a saw.

3. Affixing Battens to the Wall

This is the foundational step for a sturdy box.

  • Marking: To start, measure equidistant holes that run the length of the batten and mark them with pencil. Aim for spacing of approximately 40-60cm for strong support.
  • Drilling Battens: Once you've done this, drill a hole that runs through the entire depth of the batten itself, ensuring the drill bit is slightly wider than your screw shank but narrower than the screw head (countersink if needed).
  • Positioning and Drilling Wall: Place the batten against the wall where you will be affixing it, ensuring it's level using a spirit level. Drill through the same holes in the batten to create corresponding holes in the wall. This ensures perfect alignment.
  • Insert Wall Plugs: Remove the batten and insert appropriate wall plugs into the drilled holes in the wall.
  • Secure Battens: Reposition the batten and screw it firmly into the wall plugs using suitable screws. Repeat this process for all wall-mounted battens, forming the backbone of your box.

4. Building the Frame

  • Attach Remaining Battens: Once the wall-mounted battens are secure, attach the remaining battens to form the full frame. This usually involves creating an 'L' shape or a rectangular frame.
    • Use wood screws to join battens together, ensuring they are flush and square.
    • For an L-shaped box, you'll typically have one batten on the wall and another batten attached at a right angle to it, creating the corner where your covering will meet.
    • For a full box, you might build a complete rectangular frame that then gets screwed to the wall-mounted battens.

5. Attaching the Covering

  • Cut Covering Material: Measure and cut your plasterboard, MDF, or plywood panels to fit precisely over your batten frame.
    • For plasterboard, score with a utility knife and snap.
    • For MDF/plywood, use a saw.
  • Attach Panels: Screw the cut panels to the timber battens.
    • For plasterboard, use specific plasterboard screws, ensuring they are slightly countersunk below the surface.
    • For MDF/plywood, use wood screws.
    • Space screws approximately every 15-20cm along the battens for a secure fit.

6. Finishing Touches

  • Fill and Sand: If using plasterboard, apply jointing tape and jointing compound to cover seams and screw holes. For MDF/plywood, use wood filler over screw heads. Once dry, sand smooth.
  • Prime and Paint: Apply a suitable primer and then paint the boxed-in pipes to match your room's decor.
  • Caulking: Use decorators caulk along any edges where the box meets the wall or ceiling for a neat finish.

Types of Pipe Boxing

Type of Box Description Ideal Use Case
L-Shaped Box Consists of two visible sides (e.g., front and one side), often used in corners or against a flat wall. Pipes running along a wall or in a room corner.
Full Box Encloses pipes on all four sides, creating a rectangular or square column. Freestanding pipes, or pipes in the middle of a wall.
Removable Panel Incorporates a section that can be easily removed for access to valves or joints. Areas requiring periodic maintenance or inspection.

Practical Tips for Success

  • Maintenance Access: Always consider how you will access the pipes for future maintenance or repairs. Using screws for the covering material (rather than nails or permanent adhesive) makes it easier to remove if needed. You could also design a specific access panel.
  • Ventilation: For hot water pipes, ensure there's a small gap or consider adding subtle vents to prevent excessive heat build-up within the box.
  • Soundproofing: If pipe noise is an issue, consider lining the inside of the box with acoustic insulation before attaching the covering material.
  • Cleanliness: Ensure the pipes and surrounding wall are clean and dry before boxing them in.
  • Level and Plumb: Regularly check with a spirit level to ensure your battens and panels are perfectly level and plumb for a professional finish.

Boxing in pipes is a rewarding DIY project that significantly enhances the appearance and functionality of a space.