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How to Sew Pointe Shoes with a Sewing Machine?

Published in Pointe Shoe Preparation 6 mins read

Sewing pointe shoes with a sewing machine offers a durable and efficient method for attaching ribbons and elastic, providing dancers with secure and reliable footwear. While traditionally done by hand, machine sewing can save time and ensure consistent stitching.

Why Machine Sew Pointe Shoes?

Using a sewing machine provides a stronger, more consistent stitch compared to hand sewing, which can be particularly beneficial for the robust demands of pointe work. It's an excellent option for dancers seeking durability and efficiency in preparing their shoes.

Essential Materials

Before you begin, gather the following:

  • Pointe Shoes: Your new or current pointe shoes.
  • Ribbons: Satin or nylon ribbons, typically 7/8 inch wide.
  • Elastic: Usually 3/4 inch wide, either flat or looped.
  • Strong Thread: Polyester or nylon thread is recommended for its strength. Match the thread color to your ribbons/elastic or the shoe's satin.
  • Sewing Machine: With a needle appropriate for dense fabrics (e.g., a denim or quilting needle).
  • Pins: To secure ribbons and elastic in place.
  • Scissors: For cutting ribbons, elastic, and thread.
  • Lighter or Fray Check: To seal ribbon ends.
  • Measuring Tape or Ruler: For accurate placement.
  • Thimble (optional): For pushing pins or hand-stitching if needed.

Preparing Your Pointe Shoes

Proper preparation is key to successful machine sewing:

  1. Identify Ribbon Placement:
    • Fold the heel of the shoe flat towards the toe.
    • Mark the crease on the inside lining of the shoe, roughly where the drawstring casing meets the satin upper. This marks the primary attachment points for the ribbons.
    • Alternatively, try the shoe on and mark the precise spot where the ribbon naturally crosses your ankle.
  2. Prepare Ribbons:
    • Cut ribbons to appropriate lengths, typically 22-24 inches per ribbon (4 pieces total per pair of shoes).
    • Carefully melt or apply Fray Check to the cut ends to prevent fraying.
  3. Prepare Elastic:
    • Measure the elastic around your ankle, ensuring it's snug but not tight. You will need two pieces, one for each shoe.

Machine Sewing Ribbons

Attaching ribbons with a sewing machine requires precision and care.

  1. Position the Ribbon:
    • Take one ribbon piece and fold one end over approximately 1/2 inch to create a clean edge.
    • Align this folded end with the marked point inside the shoe, ensuring the ribbon's right side (shiny side) faces the shoe's satin.
    • Place the ribbon edge just above or along the drawstring casing, within the lining.
  2. Pin Securely:
    • Pin the ribbon in place, ensuring it is flat against the shoe's lining. You may need multiple pins to hold it firmly as you manipulate the shoe under the machine foot.
  3. Sewing Technique:
    • Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine. A shorter stitch length (e.g., 2.0-2.5 mm) will provide more security.
    • Position the shoe carefully under the needle. It's often easiest to sew with the bulk of the shoe to the left of the needle.
    • Start by stitching a rectangular box (square or 'X' stitch) to secure the ribbon strongly. Begin at one corner of your intended attachment area, sew across, pivot, sew down, pivot, sew across, and pivot back to the start.
    • Important: Be sure not to sew over your pins; either take them out as you go or remove them just before your needle reaches them.
    • Sew slowly and steadily, guiding the fabric carefully. You might need to gently push or pull the shoe fabric to keep it flat.
    • Once the box stitch looks secure to you, cut the thread and then cut off any excess string close to the seam.
  4. Repeat for All Ribbons:
    • Repeat this process for the other side of the first shoe and then for both sides of the second shoe.

Machine Sewing Elastic

Elastic provides crucial support and ensures the shoe stays on the foot.

  1. Determine Elastic Placement:
    • Typically, elastic is sewn from the heel seam (or just behind it) on one side, across the heel, to the heel seam on the other side. This forms a supportive loop around the ankle.
  2. Position the Elastic:
    • Take one piece of elastic. Fold one end over approximately 1/2 inch.
    • Align this folded end with the side heel seam on the inside of the shoe. The elastic should be positioned just above the drawstring casing.
  3. Pin Securely:
    • Pin the elastic in place.
  4. Sewing Technique:
    • Using a straight stitch, sew the elastic securely, similar to the ribbons. A box stitch or an 'X' within a box is highly recommended for durability.
    • Ensure your stitches penetrate both the lining and the outer satin for maximum strength.
    • Again, remove pins as you sew to avoid sewing over them.
    • Once the first side is sewn, try on the shoe and mark the comfortable position for the second side of the elastic on your foot. This ensures a custom fit.
    • Sew the second side of the elastic using the same secure stitching method.
  5. Repeat for Second Shoe:
    • Repeat the process for the second pointe shoe.

Tips for Success

  • Practice: If you're new to machine sewing pointe shoes, consider practicing on an old pair or scrap fabric.
  • Needle Choice: A sharper, stronger needle (e.g., a microtex or denim needle) can help navigate the thick satin and canvas of pointe shoes.
  • Foot Pedal Control: Use slow and controlled pressure on the foot pedal, especially around curves and tight spots.
  • Bobbin Thread: Use strong thread in your bobbin as well, as it contributes to the strength of your stitches.
  • Backstitch: Always backstitch at the beginning and end of your seams to lock them in place and prevent unraveling.

Comparison of Machine vs. Hand Sewing

Feature Machine Sewing Hand Sewing
Speed Faster once proficient Slower, more time-consuming
Durability Generally stronger, more consistent stitches Strength depends on stitch quality and thread
Aesthetics Can be very neat and uniform Varies, can be less uniform
Control Requires careful manipulation of the shoe High degree of control and precision
Skill Level Requires some machine sewing experience Requires basic hand-sewing skills
Flexibility Limited by machine's access to tight areas Highly adaptable to tight spaces
Comfort May result in slightly bulkier seams inside Can create flatter, less noticeable seams

By following these steps, you can effectively use a sewing machine to attach ribbons and elastic to your pointe shoes, ensuring they are secure and ready for the demands of ballet.