Sewing on wool involves selecting the right tools and settings to match the fabric's weight and texture, ensuring strong seams and a professional finish.
Successfully sewing on wool requires attention to detail, from choosing the correct needle and thread to adjusting your sewing machine settings. Wool is a versatile fabric, but its thickness, texture, and tendency to fray or felt need specific considerations.
Essential Preparations
Before you start sewing, proper preparation is key:
- Pre-wash or Steam: Wool can shrink. Pre-wash or steam your fabric according to its care instructions before cutting to avoid shrinkage after your garment is finished.
- Pressing: Use a press cloth and steam when pressing wool seams. Avoid direct heat, which can scorch or damage the fibers. Press-as-you-go for flatter seams.
- Cutting: Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Consider using weights instead of pins on delicate or loosely woven wools to avoid marking.
Needles and Thread for Wool
Choosing the correct needle and thread is crucial for creating durable seams without damaging the fabric.
- Needles: The needle size depends on the wool's weight. According to the reference, lighter wools can be sewn with 70/10 or 80/12 needles. For medium to heavier weight wools, you might need a larger needle, such as a 90/14 or even a 100/16, especially for thick coats. Always use a sharp needle to penetrate the fibers cleanly.
- Thread: For strength and durability, opt for strong threads like polyester or silk. Polyester is a common choice for its strength and availability, while silk is ideal for fine wools or for tailoring due to its smoothness.
Sewing Machine Settings
Adjusting your sewing machine settings to suit wool fabric prevents skipped stitches and ensures smooth feeding.
- Test on Scraps: Always test on fabric scraps to adjust settings before sewing your actual project.
- Stitch Length: The ideal stitch length varies with the wool's thickness. For thicker wools, a longer stitch length (up to 3.5mm) may be necessary. A longer stitch helps the machine feed the fabric smoothly and prevents the seam from looking puckered. For lighter wools, a standard 2.5mm to 3mm length is often sufficient.
- Thread Tension: Adjusting thread tension is vital for balanced stitches. Increased thread tension may be necessary for thicker wools to ensure the stitch locks correctly within the fabric layers. The stitch should look the same on both the top and bottom of the fabric.
Here's a quick guide to common settings:
| Wool Weight | Needle Size | Recommended Thread | Stitch Length (approx.) | Thread Tension |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lighter Wools | 70/10, 80/12 | Polyester, Silk | 2.5mm - 3mm | Standard |
| Thicker Wools | 90/14, 100/16 | Polyester | 3mm - 3.5mm | Increased |
Note: Always test these settings on fabric scraps and adjust as needed.
Sewing Techniques for Wool
Specific techniques can improve the outcome when sewing wool:
- Seam Finishes: Wool tends to fray. Finish raw edges using an overlocker (serger), zigzag stitch, or a Hong Kong finish for a clean and durable edge.
- Interfacing and Underlining: Consider interfacing or underlining wool fabrics to add structure, stability, and durability, especially for tailored garments.
- Handling Seams: Press seams open whenever possible. For bulky seams, grade the seam allowances by trimming them to different widths to reduce bulk.
Finishing Your Wool Project
Finishing touches are important for a professional look:
- Final Pressing: Use a press cloth and steam for a final press, shaping areas like collars and sleeve caps if necessary.
- Hemming: Hems on wool can be catch-stitched by hand for an invisible finish or machine-stitched depending on the desired look and fabric weight.
By paying close attention to needle and thread selection, adjusting your machine settings based on fabric weight, and using appropriate techniques for pressing and finishing, you can successfully sew beautiful and durable projects with wool fabric.
