Pressing enclosed seams is a vital step in garment construction, ensuring a clean, professional finish with crisp edges and hidden raw edges. It's the secret to achieving perfectly rolled edges on necklines, armholes, collars, and cuffs.
Understanding Enclosed Seams
Enclosed seams are those where the seam allowances are hidden between two layers of fabric, such as a facing and the main garment body. Properly pressing these seams creates a smooth, flat edge that prevents the seam line from showing on the right side of the fabric.
Step-by-Step Guide to Pressing Enclosed Seams
Achieving a professional finish on enclosed seams requires a specific sequence of pressing, trimming, and shaping. Follow these steps for impeccable results:
- Set the Stitch: After stitching your enclosed seam (e.g., a neckline or armhole), the first crucial step is to press the seam exactly as it was sewn to set the stitches into the fabric. This flattens the thread into the fabric fibers, embedding the stitches and making the seam line smoother and more durable.
- Reduce Bulk: To ensure a flat, smooth edge, carefully trim the seam allowances down to approximately ¼-inch. For curved seams, you'll also need to clip into the seam allowance up to (but not through) the stitching line. For corners, trim diagonally across the corner to remove excess fabric. This bulk reduction is essential for the seam to lie flat once turned.
- Press Towards the Facing/Understitching Preparation: With the garment's wrong side facing you, flip the top fabric piece (which is often the facing or lining) over the seam allowances and press them together towards that top piece. This action encourages the seam to roll slightly to the inside when the piece is turned right side out, preventing the seam line from showing on the exterior of your project. This step is key for creating a clean, professional edge.
- Final Press from the Right Side: Turn the entire piece right side out. Now, carefully flip the bottom fabric piece (the main garment) over the seam allowance and press the seam again from the right side. Use the tip of your iron to work right into the seam line, gently rolling it to ensure a crisp, sharp edge that fully encloses the seam allowances within.
Essential Pressing Tools
Having the right tools can make a significant difference in the quality of your pressing:
- Iron: A good quality steam iron is essential.
- Pressing Cloth: Protects your fabric from scorching or shine, especially delicate materials.
- Tailor's Ham: A firm, rounded cushion used for pressing curved seams, darts, and contoured areas.
- Seam Roll: A cylindrical cushion perfect for pressing long, narrow seams without creating marks on the other side of the fabric.
- Clapper: A wooden tool used to create crisp, flat seams by applying pressure and absorbing steam after pressing.
- Spray Bottle: For adding moisture to fabrics that benefit from damp pressing.
| Tool | Primary Use | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Iron | Applying heat and steam | Smoothes fabric, sets stitches |
| Pressing Cloth | Protecting fabric from direct heat | Prevents scorching, adds moisture |
| Tailor's Ham | Pressing curved seams, darts | Maintains garment shape, avoids flattening |
| Seam Roll | Pressing straight seams, enclosed seams, sleeves | Prevents seam allowance impressions |
| Clapper | Applying pressure after steaming | Creates crisp, flat seams and creases |
Tips for Perfect Pressing
- Test on Scraps: Always test your iron's temperature and steam settings on a fabric scrap before pressing your garment.
- Press as You Go: Pressing each seam immediately after stitching yields far better results than trying to press everything at the end.
- Use Steam Wisely: Steam can help set creases and flatten seams, but be mindful of fabrics that might shrink or distort with too much moisture.
- Allow to Cool: Let seams cool completely on the ironing surface or a pressing tool before moving them. This "sets" the press and prevents distortion.
- Press with the Grain: Whenever possible, press in the direction of the fabric grain to avoid stretching or distorting the fabric.
- Don't Over-Press: Excessive heat or pressure can damage fabric, create shine, or distort the garment's shape.
By following these precise steps and utilizing appropriate tools, you can ensure your enclosed seams are flawlessly flat and contribute to a polished, professional finish for all your sewing projects.
