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How to Do a Bias Bound Seam?

Published in Sewing Seam Finish 5 mins read

A bias bound seam is a refined and durable way to finish raw fabric edges, offering a professional, clean look while protecting your garment from fraying. This technique is especially beneficial for unlined garments, delicate fabrics, or projects where the inside of the seam will be visible.

This detailed guide will walk you through the process of creating a bias bound seam, ensuring a beautiful and lasting finish for your sewing projects.

What is a Bias Bound Seam?

A bias bound seam involves encasing the raw edges of your seam allowances individually with strips of bias tape. Bias tape, cut on the fabric's diagonal grain, has excellent flexibility, making it perfect for smoothly curving around edges without puckering or adding bulk.

Benefits of a Bias Bound Seam

Benefit Description
Durability Completely encloses raw edges, preventing fraying and significantly extending the life of the garment.
Clean Finish Provides a highly professional and neat appearance on the inside of the garment, ideal for unlined items.
Flexibility The bias-cut nature of the tape allows it to conform smoothly to curved seams and edges without pulling.
Reduced Bulk While adding a layer, it's often flatter and less bulky than some other enclosed seam finishes on certain fabrics.
Enhanced Look Can add a pop of contrasting color or texture to the garment's interior, showcasing attention to detail.

Materials You'll Need

  • Fabric for your project
  • Pre-made bias tape (single-fold or double-fold) or fabric to make your own bias tape
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing machine
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
  • Pins or sewing clips

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing a Bias Bound Seam

Follow these seven steps to achieve a perfectly finished bias bound seam:

1. Prepare the Fabric and Sew a Regular Seam

Begin by sewing your fabric pieces together to form the initial seam. This is typically done with right sides together, using your project's specified seam allowance. Once stitched, press the seam allowances open. This step is crucial as it prepares each individual seam allowance edge for binding.

2. Prepare the Bias Tape

You can use either pre-made bias tape or create your own. For a custom look or to match your fabric perfectly, making your own bias tape is recommended. If using pre-made tape, press it thoroughly to ensure it's flat and ready for application. For most bound seams, single-fold bias tape is ideal, but double-fold can also work, requiring a slight modification in how you attach it.

3. Attach the Bias Tape

With your seam allowances pressed open, take one strip of bias tape. Open one folded edge of the bias tape. Align the raw edge of the opened bias tape with the raw edge of one of your seam allowances. Ensure the right side of the bias tape is facing the wrong side of the seam allowance. Pin the bias tape along this edge.

  • Tip: When working with curves, gently stretch the bias tape slightly as you pin to help it lie smoothly.

Stitch the bias tape to the seam allowance along the first fold line of the bias tape. This seam should be narrow, typically about 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge, depending on the width of your bias tape.

4. Wrap the Bias Tape Around the Raw Edge

Once the first seam is sewn, trim the seam allowance close to your stitching line to reduce bulk, if necessary. Now, wrap the bias tape around the raw edge of the seam allowance. The previously stitched seam should now be hidden inside the fold of the bias tape. Press the bias tape firmly around the edge.

  • Pro Tip: For a very crisp edge, you can understitch the bias tape to the seam allowance after wrapping, but before the final topstitching. This helps the binding roll to the inside.

5. Topstitching

With the bias tape neatly wrapped around the raw edge, it's time to secure it. From the right side of the bias tape (which is now on the wrong side of your garment), stitch along the remaining open folded edge of the bias tape. Stitch slowly and carefully to catch the back edge of the bias tape, ensuring a clean and even line of stitching on both sides. This topstitching secures the bias tape completely around the raw edge.

  • Precision: Aim to stitch consistently close to the folded edge of the bias tape for the neatest finish.

6. Repeat for the Other Seam Allowance

Do not forget the other side! Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 for the second seam allowance. Each seam allowance should be bound individually, creating two distinct bound edges that lie flat when the seam is complete. This individual binding is what gives the bias bound seam its characteristic neatness and durability.

7. Final Pressing

After both seam allowances are bound, give the entire seam a thorough pressing. Press the bound seam allowances away from the main seam line, and then press the entire seam flat from the right side of your fabric. This final pressing sets the stitches and helps the seam lie beautifully, giving your garment a polished, high-quality finish.

A properly executed bias bound seam not only looks good but also contributes to the longevity and professional appearance of your handmade garments. Explore various sewing techniques to elevate your crafting skills!