How to Face an Armhole?

Facing an armhole involves neatly finishing the raw edge with a shaped piece of fabric, providing a clean and professional look. Here's how to do it:

Steps to Facing an Armhole:

1. Prepare the Facing: Cut the armhole facing pieces according to your pattern. The facing should mirror the armhole shape and extend a few inches beyond the armhole edge. Typically, you'll have separate facing pieces for the front and back armhole areas.

2. Finish the Outer Edge of the Facing: Before attaching the facing to the garment, finish the outer edge. You can use several methods:

   • Serge: A quick and clean finish.
   • Zigzag stitch: A simple and accessible option using a sewing machine.
   • Turning and stitching: Fold the edge under 1/4 inch and then another 1/4 inch, and stitch close to the fold.

3. Connect Side Seams (if applicable): If your facing consists of multiple pieces (e.g., front and back), sew them together at the side seams. Ensure these seams align with the garment's side seams. Press the seams open.

4. Attach the Facing to the Armhole:

   • Place the facing on top of the main garment, right sides facing.
   • Align the raw edge of the facing with the raw edge of the armhole.
   • Pin the facing securely to the armhole, matching notches and any other markings.
   • Sew around the armhole using the seam allowance indicated in your pattern (usually 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch).

5. Clip and Notch the Seam Allowance: This is crucial for a smooth finish.

   • Clip into the seam allowance along curved outward areas (convex curves) almost up to the stitching line. This allows the fabric to spread.
   • Notch the seam allowance along curved inward areas (concave curves) by cutting out small wedges. This removes bulk.
   • Be careful not to cut through the stitching line.

6. Understitch (optional but recommended): Understitching helps the facing stay turned to the inside and prevents it from rolling to the outside.

   • Press the seam allowance towards the facing.
   • Stitch on the facing side, very close to the seam, catching the seam allowance underneath. This stitching should not be visible from the right side of the garment.

7. Turn the Facing to the Inside: Turn the facing to the inside of the garment. Press the armhole edge sharply.

8. Secure the Facing (optional): You can secure the facing in place with a few hand stitches at the shoulder seam and side seam. This prevents it from shifting. Invisible stitches are best.

9. Finishing shoulder and opening seams (if applicable): If your facing has 5cm openings and separated shoulder seams, pull the shoulder seams to the inside, pin, and sew. Then pin and sew the 5cm openings, matching the shoulder seams.

Tips for Success:

• Accurate Cutting: Precision is key. Cut the facing pieces accurately to match the armhole.
• Staystitching: Staystitch around the armhole of the garment before attaching the facing. This prevents stretching during the construction process.
• Pressing: Pressing is vital at each stage for a professional finish.
• Fabric Choice: Choose a facing fabric that is lightweight and similar in weight to the garment fabric. This will prevent bulk.

By following these steps, you can achieve a beautifully faced armhole on your garments.