How to Lace a Pair of Oxford Shoes?

Lacing a pair of Oxford shoes correctly is essential for maintaining their classic, formal aesthetic. The traditional and most appropriate method for Oxfords is straight bar lacing (also known as straight lacing), which creates neat, parallel bars across the vamp, complementing the shoe's closed lacing system. This method hides the diagonal segments of the lace underneath, presenting a clean and polished look.

Understanding Straight Bar Lacing

Straight bar lacing ensures all visible lace segments run horizontally across the shoe. This style is particularly suited for Oxford shoes because their "closed throat" (where the vamp is sewn over the quarters, and the eyelets are punched directly into the vamp) means the lacing system is inherently more formal and streamlined.

Step-by-Step Guide to Straight Bar Lacing

Follow these steps to achieve the perfect straight bar lace on your Oxford shoes:

1. Initial Setup & First Bar

• Begin by threading your shoelace through the bottom-most pair of eyelets from the outside-in. This creates the first visible straight, horizontal bar across the base of the shoe.
• Adjusting Lace Lengths Based on Eyelet Count:
  • For an even number of eyelet pairs: Adjust the lace so both ends emerging from the inside are of equal length. You can start the subsequent lacing steps with either end.
  • For an odd number of eyelet pairs: Adjust the lace so one end is slightly longer than the other. As per the reference, "if you have an odd number of eyelet pairs, then start with the longer side" when performing the internal skips, ensuring enough length for a clean finish at the top.

2. Lacing the Second Bar (The Reference Method Applied)

• Take one end of the lace (if you have an even number of eyelets, either end; if odd, typically the shorter end if one is designated "longer" for skipping).
• From the underside, pull this lace up through the second eyelet on the same side.
• Immediately, feed this lace straight across and down through the adjacent hole on the opposite side (i.e., the second eyelet on the other side). This forms your second visible horizontal bar.

3. Lacing the Third Bar (The Internal Skip Method)

• Now take the other end of the lace (the one still inside the bottom eyelet, or the "longer side" if you have odd eyelets).
• From the underside, pull this lace up through the third eyelet on the same side, effectively skipping the second eyelet internally. This lace end will consistently perform these internal skips.
• Immediately, feed this lace straight across and down through the adjacent hole on the opposite side (the third eyelet on the other side). This creates your third visible horizontal bar.

4. Continuing the Pattern

• Continue this alternating pattern:
  • The lace end that just formed a bar by coming up through an eyelet and crossing over will now become the one that performs the internal skip to the next available eyelet on its side before crossing over.
  • The lace end that just made an internal skip and crossed over will now become the one that simply moves up one eyelet internally to the next available one before crossing over.
• Maintain even tension and keep your laces flat as you work your way up the shoe for a clean, consistent look.

5. Finishing

• Continue until all eyelets are laced. Both lace ends should emerge neatly from the top eyelets, ready to be tied in a bow. For shoes with an odd number of eyelet pairs, the "longer side" initially set aside will have sufficient length to complete its final internal traverse and emerge alongside the other end.

Why Straight Bar Lacing is Ideal for Oxfords

• Aesthetic Appeal: It presents the cleanest, most streamlined look, which perfectly matches the formal and elegant nature of Oxford shoes.
• Formal Integrity: It aligns with the traditional design of Oxfords, where the lacing is meant to appear as a seamless part of the shoe's upper.
• Comfort and Fit: When done correctly, it allows for even tension distribution across the foot, contributing to a comfortable and secure fit.

Tips for Best Results

• Keep Laces Flat: Always ensure the laces remain flat and untwisted, especially the visible horizontal bars.
• Even Tension: Apply consistent tension as you lace each eyelet pair. This prevents puckering and ensures a neat appearance.
• Choose the Right Laces: Waxed cotton laces are often preferred for Oxfords as they hold their shape well and provide a refined finish.
• Practice Makes Perfect: The first few attempts might feel awkward, but with practice, you'll master the technique.

Summary Table: Lacing Start based on Eyelet Count