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Which Comes First: Emulsion or Serum?

Published in Skincare Layering 3 mins read

Generally, serums come before emulsions in a skincare routine. However, this rule of thumb is not absolute, and specific brand instructions should always take precedence.

Understanding Skincare Layering

The order in which you apply your skincare products is crucial for their efficacy. Products are typically layered from thinnest to thickest consistency, allowing lighter, more concentrated treatments to penetrate the skin effectively before heavier products create a barrier.

The General Rule: Serums First

Serums are concentrated treatments designed to deliver targeted active ingredients deep into the skin. They often have a lighter, more fluid consistency than emulsions. Emulsions, on the other hand, are lightweight moisturizers that provide hydration and nourishment, usually having a consistency somewhere between a serum and a cream.

Following the principle of applying products from thinnest to thickest, serums are typically applied directly after cleansing and toning, followed by an emulsion.

  • Serum's Role: To deliver potent active ingredients (e.g., antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptides) to address specific skin concerns like fine lines, hyperpigmentation, or dehydration.
  • Emulsion's Role: To provide a layer of hydration and help seal in the benefits of the serum and other treatments, without being as heavy as a traditional cream.

The Important Exception: Always Check Brand Instructions

While the "serum first" rule is widely accepted, the most definitive guidance comes from the product manufacturer itself. As highlighted by skincare experts:

"This is where the fine print matters. Read what each brand says - if they suggest using an emulsion before the serums, that's fine to do. Otherwise, rule of thumb, stick to using emulsions after your serum step."

This means that if a particular brand formulates its emulsion to be used as a pre-serum treatment or specifies a different order, their instructions should be followed. This can sometimes occur with very watery emulsions or those designed to enhance serum absorption.

Why Order Matters

Applying products in the correct sequence ensures that each product can perform its intended function without interference.

  • Optimal Absorption: Thinner formulas like serums can penetrate the skin more easily when applied to a clean, bare surface or after a toner. Applying a heavier product like an emulsion first could create a barrier, hindering the serum's absorption.
  • Maximizing Benefits: Serums contain highly concentrated active ingredients. Applying them before a moisturizing layer allows these ingredients to work directly on the skin's concerns.

Practical Skincare Routine Example

Here's a common layering approach illustrating the general order:

Step No. Product Type Purpose Application Order
1. Cleanser Removes impurities First
2. Toner Balances pH, preps skin After cleansing
3. Serum Targeted treatment for specific concerns After toner (generally)
4. Emulsion Lightweight hydration, locks in serum After serum (generally)
5. Moisturizer/SPF Deeper hydration, protection (day) After emulsion (if needed)
6. Face Oil (Optional) Extra nourishment, last step (night) After moisturizer (if used)

Key takeaway: While the general rule is serum before emulsion, always refer to the specific brand's instructions on the product packaging for the most accurate usage guidance.