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How do you make cold process soap more conditioning?

Published in Soap Making Conditioning 4 mins read

To make cold process soap more conditioning, you can effectively enhance its skin-loving properties by adjusting your recipe through two primary methods: replacing a portion of the water with nourishing alternative liquids and increasing the superfat percentage of your oils.

1. Utilize Alternative Liquids as Water Replacements

One effective way to boost the conditioning qualities of your cold process soap is by replacing the water component of your lye solution with alternative liquids. These liquids often contain natural fats, sugars, vitamins, and other beneficial compounds that contribute to a richer, more luxurious, and skin-conditioning bar.

According to Modern Soapmaking, examples of such liquids include:

  • Goat's Milk (or other milks): Milk is rich in natural fats, sugars, and vitamins, which can add creaminess, enhance lather, and provide a more nourishing feel to the final soap bar. When using milk, it's crucial to freeze it into cubes or keep it extremely cold to prevent scorching or curdling when the lye is added.
  • Yogurt: Similar to milk, yogurt contains fats and lactic acid. It can contribute to a creamy, gentle lather and a more emollient soap. Like milk, it should be kept cold to prevent issues with the lye.
  • Aloe Vera Juice: Known for its soothing and moisturizing properties, aloe vera juice can infuse the soap with beneficial vitamins and enzymes, making the bar feel gentle and conditioning on the skin.

Benefits of Alternative Liquids

Alternative Liquid Conditioning Benefits Practical Considerations
Goat's Milk Adds natural fats, sugars, and vitamins; enhances creamy lather; provides a softer, more emollient feel. Must be frozen or kept very cold to prevent scorching when mixing with lye. Sugars can accelerate trace and increase soap temperature.
Yogurt Contributes lactic acid, fats, and probiotics; results in a creamy, mild bar; can be very soothing. Keep cold; can significantly accelerate trace due to its sugar and protein content.
Aloe Vera Juice Offers soothing, hydrating, and vitamin-rich properties; can make the soap feel gentle and nourishing. Can slightly accelerate trace. Ensure it is pure juice without added chemicals or thickeners.

2. Increase the Superfat Percentage

Another crucial method for making cold process soap more conditioning is by increasing its superfat percentage. Superfat refers to the portion of oils in your soap recipe that are intentionally left unsaponified (not turned into soap by the lye). These "extra" oils remain in the finished soap bar, providing a nourishing and moisturizing effect on the skin.

Modern Soapmaking highlights increasing the superfat of the total oils as a direct way to condition the skin. While a typical superfat percentage for cold process soap ranges from 5% to 8%, increasing it can yield a more emollient bar.

How Superfat Works

When you formulate your soap recipe, you calculate the precise amount of lye needed to saponify (turn into soap) your chosen oils. A superfat percentage means you're using slightly less lye than what would be required to saponify all the oils. The remaining oils provide the conditioning properties.

For example:

  • A 5% superfat means 5% of your total oils will remain unsaponified in the final bar.
  • A 10% superfat means 10% of your total oils will remain, leading to a much more conditioning, emollient soap.

Considerations When Increasing Superfat

  • Softer Bar: Higher superfat percentages can result in a softer soap bar that may not last as long in the shower.
  • Rancidity (DOS): Very high superfat (e.g., above 10-12%) can increase the risk of the unsaponified oils going rancid over time, leading to dreaded orange spots (DOS).
  • Oil Selection: The type of oils chosen for your recipe also plays a role. Using a higher percentage of conditioning oils like shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado oil, or olive oil, in combination with a higher superfat, can maximize the conditioning feel.

By thoughtfully incorporating these methods, you can create cold process soap bars that are not only cleansing but also deeply moisturizing and gentle on the skin.

You can learn more about crafting soap recipes by referring to resources like this blog post on soap making secrets.