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How to mix patterns in a suit?

Published in Suit Styling 4 mins read

Mixing patterns in a suit is an artful way to add depth, personality, and sophistication to your ensemble. The key lies in creating visual harmony through strategic contrasts in pattern type, scale, color, and texture, while using solids as a balancing element when needed.

Understanding Pattern Mixing Principles

When approaching patterned suits, shirts, and ties, the goal is not to match everything perfectly but to create a cohesive look that is visually interesting without being overwhelming. The most effective way to mix patterns is by pairing one with another thoughtfully.

Key Rules for Success

Successfully combining patterns in a suit involves mindful application of several principles:

1. Vary the Scale

This is perhaps the most crucial rule. If you're mixing two or more patterns, ensure they are of significantly different sizes. This prevents them from clashing and creating a dizzying effect.

  • Large with Small: A suit with a broad windowpane check pairs well with a shirt featuring fine pinstripes or small gingham.
  • Avoid Similar Scales: Two patterns of similar size will often compete for attention, making your outfit look busy and unrefined.

2. Contrast Pattern Types (or Vary Them Carefully)

You can either mix different types of patterns or, with caution, combine similar types.

  • Mixing Different Patterns:
    • Stripes with Checks: A classic and often fool-proof combination. For example, a striped tie with a checked shirt, or a pinstripe suit with a plaid shirt.
    • Geometric with Organic: A polka dot tie (geometric) can complement a subtle floral pocket square (organic).
  • Mixing Similar Patterns (Stripes with Stripes, Checks with Checks):
    This requires careful attention to variation in size, texture, and color.
    • Stripes with Stripes: Pair a suit with wide pinstripes with a shirt featuring thin pencil stripes, ensuring a distinct difference in their width and density.
    • Checks with Checks: Combine a larger plaid suit with a smaller gingham or micro-check shirt. The patterns are the same type but differ significantly in scale.

3. Harmonize Colors

While patterns might differ, their colors should work together. Choose a dominant color in one piece and echo it or a complementary shade in another.

  • Family Colors: Use different shades of the same color (e.g., navy pinstripe suit, light blue striped shirt).
  • Complementary Colors: Incorporate colors that sit opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., a blue tie with an orange accent in a pocket square).
  • Neutral Anchors: Use neutral colors like grey, navy, white, or black as a base to allow patterned pieces to stand out without clashing.

4. Incorporate Texture

Texture adds another layer of visual interest and can help differentiate patterns, even if they are similar in type or color.

  • Contrast Textures: A smooth silk tie can complement a textured wool suit or a crisp cotton shirt.
  • Fabric Weight: A flannel suit has a different visual and tactile texture than a smooth worsted wool suit, influencing how patterns appear.

The "When in Doubt" Rule: Use a Solid

If you're unsure about a pattern combination, or if you feel your outfit is becoming too busy, use a solid piece to balance everything out.

  • Patterned Suit + Patterned Shirt + Solid Tie: This allows two patterns to shine with a grounding solid.
  • Solid Suit + Patterned Shirt + Patterned Tie: A solid suit provides a blank canvas, allowing you to go bolder with your shirt and tie patterns.
  • Patterned Suit + Solid Shirt + Patterned Tie: This combination highlights the suit and tie patterns while the solid shirt offers a clean break.

Practical Combinations

Here are some examples of effective pattern mixing for suits:

Suit Pattern Shirt Pattern Tie Pattern Notes
Navy Pinstripe Light Blue Gingham Solid Burgundy Classic combination; scale difference between pinstripe and gingham is key.
Grey Glen Plaid White & Blue Stripe Small Paisley Different pattern types (plaid, stripe, paisley) with varied scales.
Charcoal Solid White & Black Check Geometric Dot Solid suit allows for bolder shirt and tie.
Brown Windowpane Light Blue Solid Green Foulard Solid shirt balances patterned suit and tie, making it approachable.
Blue Prince of Wales White Fine Stripe Solid Navy Knit Contrasting scales and textures (wool suit, cotton shirt, knit tie).

Final Tips for Mixing Patterns

  • Start Simple: Begin with just two patterned items (e.g., suit and shirt, or shirt and tie) before attempting three.
  • Consider the Occasion: Bolder pattern mixes are often better suited for less formal settings or creative industries.
  • Confidence is Key: Wear your chosen patterns with conviction.

By understanding and applying these principles, you can confidently mix patterns in your suit ensembles, creating looks that are both stylish and uniquely yours.