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Did Tag Heuer Use a Seiko Movement?

Published in Watch Movements 3 mins read

Yes, TAG Heuer did use a Seiko movement as the foundational design for one of its significant chronograph calibers, the Calibre 1887.

The Calibre 1887 and its Seiko Connection

TAG Heuer, a renowned Swiss luxury watch manufacturer, indeed utilized a Seiko movement as the basis for its acclaimed Calibre 1887 chronograph movement. This decision, which came to light around the time of the Calibre 1887's introduction, was a notable development in the watch industry.

The choice by a major entity in the Swiss watch industry to build upon a Seiko design underscored the Japanese brand's significant expertise and advanced capabilities in horology. While the core architecture originated from Seiko (specifically, the Seiko TC78/6S37 movement), TAG Heuer embarked on substantial modifications and industrialized the caliber for production in Switzerland.

Key Aspects of the Calibre 1887's Development:

  • Foundational Design: The underlying architecture of the Calibre 1887 was derived from Seiko's existing chronograph movement design. This included fundamental and highly regarded elements such as its column wheel and vertical clutch system, which contribute to smooth and precise chronograph operation.
  • Swiss Industrialization and Production: TAG Heuer invested considerably in adapting and manufacturing the movement components in-house in Switzerland. This extensive process involved developing new tooling, establishing assembly lines, and implementing rigorous quality control measures to meet Swiss industrial standards and the brand's exacting requirements.
  • Differentiation and Brand Identity: Despite its origins, TAG Heuer emphasized that the final Calibre 1887 was a distinct product. Through their substantial modifications, industrialization, and finishing, the movement was refined and manufactured to reflect the brand's identity, thereby adding unique differentiation within its watch collections. The ultimate aim was to produce a caliber that stood out and enhanced the value of their timepieces.

This strategic approach allowed TAG Heuer to introduce a high-quality, in-house-produced chronograph movement more efficiently and cost-effectively, while leveraging a proven and robust base design. The Calibre 1887 has since been integrated into several of TAG Heuer's popular models, particularly various Carrera chronographs.

Conceptual Comparison: Base vs. Final Product

Feature Seiko Base Movement (e.g., TC78/6S37) TAG Heuer Calibre 1887
Origin of Design Seiko, Japan Derived from Seiko design
Manufacturing Seiko, Japan Industrialized and produced by TAG Heuer
Key Components Column wheel, vertical clutch Retained, with significant modifications
Purpose Automatic chronograph movement Automatic chronograph movement

This collaboration highlights a pragmatic approach in watchmaking, where external horological excellence can be combined with internal manufacturing prowess and refinement to deliver a high-quality, differentiated product to the market.